Conceived in a brief period of hope, and exhibited during a time of loss and uncertainty, Maison Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture show transported us to another universe. Daniel Roseberry embraces the redefinition of reality and questions the relevance of high fashion in an era of turbulence and flux by showcasing a collection inspired by the empyreal. “The heavens [is] a place to escape from the chaos of our planet,” Roseberry wrote in the show notes.
Set at the Petit Palais in Paris, An Age of Discipline made a move towards the elemental with a clean and sophisticated palette comprising of only black, white, and a specifically formulated gold, which includes pieces of 24k gold leaf. To the designer, big silhouettes, glorious poufs of fabric, and huge volume felt hollow and empty amidst the excruciating present.
As for the silhouettes, Roseberry had in mind “a mythical high priestess, at once goddess and alien, who might in fact walk among us.” The collection features shapes that defy the rules of gravity with aerodynamic bustiers and sculptural accoutrements. The juxtaposition between simple, tailored silhouettes and architectural, heavily detailed gold embellishments creates a dramatic and ethereal effect.
All the designs revisited the house’s Surrealist roots, this time however, with a sci-fi and escapist twist. There were hand-forged gilded Saturn rings of gold orbiting the alien goddesses; circular hats and jewellery that resembled planetary orbs; Apollon de Versailles embroidery; and hand-molded leather embossed ornaments. While speaking to Vogue UK, Roseberry said, “I’ve seen Dune I don’t know how many times! We kept saying “Planet Schiaparelli”. I wanted to do something that looked totally unlike anybody else.”
Take a look at the Schiaparelli Couture spring 2022 collection, below.